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June 28, 2006

Beating Burnout on the Bighorn

Writing this blog is, of course, a dream job. Still, the constant travel and entire absence of routine gets a little tiring every now and then. These challenges were particularly heavy on my mind after a few days off at home in Big Sky. As I left town for another month on the road, I was suffering from burnout. Struggling artists often search for inspiration in the company of their peers. In the same vein, I journeyed to the Bighorn to fish with some other hard-core young anglers, hoping to stoke my inner drive...
CLICK HERE to read more

Bighorn623small.jpg
Bighorn brown trout

Few anglers have more drive then Jeremiah Heitke. Jeremiah and I worked together for the Forest Service Fish and Aquatic Ecology Unit doing bull trout, steelhead, and salmon habitat assessment in the Upper Columbia River Basin. Over the course of three field seasons, we had many epic fishing trips, both during the work week and on our days off.

Jeremiah still works most of the year for the Forest Service, putting his Master’s degree in fishery biology to good use. A truly devoted angler, he takes a couple months off each winter to go on fishing adventures around the globe. A few years ago, he embarked on a near death slog through the mountains of New Zealand in search of monster browns. More recently, he has “dirt-bagged it” in Belize, angling for bones, sharks, and anything else swimming the reefs and flats.

Our trip to the ‘horn offers further proof of Jeremiah’s fly fishing obsession. One day before the trip, he broke his clavicle while mountain biking. Still, Jeremiah accompanied his brother Dustin on the 7+ hour drive to the river and he fished hard for two and a half days.

Originally hailing from Wisconsin, an annual trip to the Bighorn is a tradition for the Heitke family. Located on the eastern flank of the Rocky Mountain region, the ‘horn is a first stop for many anglers heading west.

I fished the Bighorn on my summer treks to the Northern Rockies in high school. My impression of the place kept me from returning until this trip. It’s not that I didn’t have a good time on the river; it’s just there are a lot of other places I prefer. My main objection to the ‘horn is that it attracts some less-than-sporting anglers. A few of the guys you will meet on the river believe that catching big trout is evidence of their manliness and angling amongst these knuckleheads is not always a positive experience.

That said, the Bighorn is an incredible fishery, the benchmark for tailwaters worldwide. Until the mid nineties, the Bighorn supported ridiculously high fish densities (and obscene angling pressure). Drought, whirling disease, and other challenges diminished fish numbers and fewer anglers visited the river during the first few years of the 21st century. However, the river continued to fish well, particularly for 20+ inch trout.

Last season, fish numbers started to rebound. With another good water year this season, everyone is optimistic that this trend will continue.

The surrounding country is scenic in that desolate, northern plains sort of way. Low light casts striking shadows on the steppes and buttes. This part of Montana gives true meaning to “big sky country” and the high clouds can offer as scenic vistas as the Tetons to those who are willing to look up from their strike indicators.

After a decade of drought, minimum flows are a hot topic on the ‘horn. TU just forged a partnership with the Crow nation that aims to maintain a minimum flow in the river. The tribe, which owns a big portion of the Bighorn's water rights, is an important partner in the management of the river. Check out the write-up on page 48 of the spring 2006 issue of Trout magazine.

This season, healthy flows promise rapid-fire angling. Within fifteen minutes of wetting my first line, I caught the biggest brown trout of my season (so far). It was rather anticlimactic. Usually, my biggest fish of the year is the product of a long day headhunting with size 1/0 woolly buggers, or after compulsively stalking the same behemoth for a month.

All I had to do on the ‘horn was string my rod and roll cast a 2 inch long San Juan Worm into a likely run. I was daydreaming when my indicator hesitated slightly. Fortunately, I do this enough that I can set the hook without paying attention, kind of like how one can drive down the highway without thinking about it. The next thing I knew, there was an enormous golden flash as the unhappy toad rolled and darted downstream. It almost felt like I had cheated when I landed this entirely undeserved chunky 20-22” brown.

The Heitke brothers and I continued to catch 18+” browns, rainbows, and cuttbows on the Bighorn for the rest of the trip. And unlike my first fish, many of these trout were earned.

The Heitkes approach the ‘horn differently than most anglers. They enjoy sight fishing the shallow riffles. The brothers slowly patrol the bank, looking for certain shades of color, motion, and body parts (especially tails) in the shelf riffles, often in water less than knee deep. Until you develop an eye for it, these fish are really hard to see. With years of experience on the ‘horn and countless other rivers, the brothers are fish sighting machines. It doesn’t hurt either that both Jeremiah and Dustin are close to six and a half feet tall, allowing them to look down through the glare.

Sighting a trout is half the battle. Then the angler must deliver a nymph rig to the fish without spooking it. Compared to other rivers, this isn’t that hard on the ‘horn, but it does require accurate casting and a good sense of where your fly is during the drift so you can set the hook when the trout takes. Jeremiah is particularly good at this. Despite his broken clavicle, he was picking off nice trout right and left. “There’s one!” he’d say. Two casts later he’d be into the fish. It was pretty cool to watch.

In the morning, the fish were suckers for the big San Juans. There are a lot of aquatic worms in the system and such an imitation is as realistic as any baetis nymph. Dustin started tying 2.5-4 inch long worms on streamer hooks a few years ago and the Heitkes have been fishing them ever since. Towards noon, the fish switched over to small (#20) scuds and sowbugs. Midge larva imitations and micro pheasant tails did the trick later in the evening.

The second day on the river, we rented a drift boat and floated the upper 12 miles of river. Given their predisposition to sight fishing, the Heitkes use the boat exclusively to access good wading sites. We had a blast stalking large fish in skinny water. If you take a look at my photos, you will see a few of the many beautiful trout we caught.

The 13+ hour float was also the perfect cure for my case of burnout. The Heitkes’ enthusiasm is contagious and by the end of the day, I was fired up for the next month on the road. I can’t wait to get down to Colorado and fish harder than I’ve ever fished before. In addition to visiting old haunts, I look forward to hiking into the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, exploring a secret spring creek in the Arkansas River Valley, and only time will tell what else.

Please look at these photos. It will be worth your time, I promise! CLICK HERE

Posted by ladelfio at June 28, 2006 10:47 AM

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Comments

David,

I believe the Trout Creek drum (copy and paste this address to read about it: http://blog01.kintera.com/troutunlimited/archives/2006/06/east_of_eden.html#more) is entirely powered by the water. The drum sits on ball bearings and spins freely. The drum works by allowing the passage of water through the slits in the device. As the water flows through, it spins the drum, pushing sticks, leaves, and other debris over the drum. Fish, however, cannot make it over or through the drum and they are channeled into the outflow pipe that pushes them back into the creek.

Apparently, Wyoming Game and Fish has a more detailed write-up about the operation of the drum somewhere on their website, but I couldn't find it with a brief search. I'm sure a web-savvy guy like you may be able to track it down.

The Reaves also mentioned that some of the other technologies currently under development utilize solar power to keep fish out of the ditches.

Thanks,
Luca

Posted by: Luca at July 5, 2006 03:46 PM

Check out this introduction article on Clavicle:
Clavicle

Posted by: clavicle at July 4, 2006 10:25 PM

Not that he does not love them for their effectiveness, but I always love to share that my dad refers to the San Juan Worm as an "RPS" - or "Red Piece of S#$^"

But a wonderfully effective red piece it is!
Cheers
s

Posted by: Sam Snyder at July 3, 2006 07:55 PM

Luca,
Nice stories.
How does the drum work for seperating the fish out. It is powered by the water or is electric?

I never knew that a lot of fish were lost in the irragation system. I should I guess. When I lived in Creste Butte Colorado that one of the long time locals I knew had commented that one of the best places to catch large trout was in the irragation channels irrigating the hay fields.

Posted by: David Brady at July 3, 2006 05:14 PM

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